Tuesday, March 01, 2005

Surfin Story.

Surfing on Wikiki Beach. Diamond Head Crater in the background. Posted by Hello

Surfing was somthing I had always wanted to try. And I couldnt pass up this chance.
I went with a lessson based out of the hotel we stayed at. The instructors were all in their 20's, the other newbie surfers were like between 12 and 17. Im 30. whatever.

We hit the water and started paddeling out toward some small breakers. While paddeling out I was just going at my own pace. Pumping along. I was way ahead of eveyone...the kid instructor is like....'wow your in pretty good shape. most people are always way behind.' And im just thinking 'i only got an hour..' let get the fuck out the waves.'

So we got out there....were shown how to catch the waves....they'd give you a little push if you timing wasnt just right. But Ill tell you want...I got up on the first try. Albeit not long but i was up. I think i did about 8-10 more waves before we went in. I should mention that the surf boards are so large that you could probably stand up on them in flat water.

While on one wave a small kid fell in my line and luckily i saw him and figured out how to turn the board, otherwise i would have crushed the kid.
My shoulders were dead paddling back in 'cause i was pushing so hard while out with the waves.
It was worth it.